How to Microneedle for Beginners: The SK Way

How to Microneedle for Beginners: The SK Way

Many beauty influencers are teaching habits that build disorganized collagen, meaning they will end up aging faster, not better. The SK Way is different.

When I was learning about microneedling (MN) I watched dozens of videos, read articles, and combed through so many reddit posts with tips. It didn’t take long to realize that the actual practice of microneedling is as varied as the people doing it. Confusing, right? 

Many professionals preach great science and habits, but they never mention the impressive Korean skin boosters that can significantly elevate a treatment. On the other side of the spectrum, many beauty influencers promote sloppy, dangerous habits – frequently going too deep, needling too often, and mixing inappropriate products. Because they are focused on views, platform algorithms, and affiliate commissions, they are often doing more harm than good over the long term. 

As a researcher, I wanted data-driven results, not marketing hype. As I learned more from estheticians and dermatologists, read the latest clinical studies, and identified the mistakes of the “influencer” method, I began to develop my own strategy: the SK Way. It’s a “little and often” protocol that uses the latest science on needle depths, timings, and patterns, then layers in the massive cellular-level benefits of advanced skin boosters.  It is designed to safely signal your skin to regenerate without the trauma, downtime, or micro-scarring of old-school methods.

Let’s start at the beginning.  

Essential Microneedling Starter Kit

Things you will need. 

Microneedling Device

Choose the best device type for the area you are targeting.  Get a Dr. Pen if you plan to MN your face, neck, chest.  Consider a disposable stamp if you want something fast or if you’re just starting out and want to see how it goes before investing in a device. 

  • Microneedling pen (e.g., Dr. Pen M8S) – SK Preferred for precision and safety. Can set depth, speed, and choose pin count. Can stamp or circle based on preference. But, the small pins are meant for precision, so it does not cover a lot of area. 
    By the way, I do not recommend the Derminator. 
  • Derma Stamp – Manual. Beginner friendly, easy to position, stamping is the least damaging to skin. Dispose after 8-10 uses or when the needles get dull. Must sterilize after every use or when switching locations. Usually covers a larger area than a pen.
  • Dermaroller – Manual. Same as the Derma Stamp, except it rolls. Less control, but very fast to use on larger areas, such as the body.  Rollers are notorious for micro-tears because the needles enter and exit the skin at an angle, acting like a “pizza cutter.” This is really only recommended for your abdomen or legs where skin is thicker. 

Sterile Cartridges or Rollers

  • Pen cartridges: 36-pin (for cosmetic) or 12-pin (for medical). Disposable. Use new, sterile cartridges each session. 
  • For Stamps or Rollers: 0.25–0.5mm for the face; up to 1.0mm for thick-skinned areas of the body

Disinfectant & Sterility Supplies

  • 70% isopropyl alcohol – for disinfecting your device and working area Amazon
  • Sterile gauze – avoid cotton balls which can leave fibers behind on the skin Amazon
  • Hypochlorous acid mist – the best choice for your skin; it is gentle anti-microbial care both during and post-treatment. It’s effective but won’t sting or dry like alcohol. Can also be used to spray on devices.  Amazon
  • Optional: Curex Alcohol Wipes instead of alcohol on gauze pads  Amazon

Numbing Cream 

Optional, but recommended if you choose to do medical depth MNing at ≥0.5mm. 

  • 5% or 10% Lidocaine cream is helpful if you are sensitive, but it must be thoroughly wiped off, and the area cleansed with alcohol, before you begin needling.  Avoid pushing the cream into the dermis. 

Topical Serums (Sterile & MN-safe)

  • The Beginner Baseline: If you are brand new to sourcing products and want highly accessible, reliable serums you can grab easily, check out my comprehensive breakdown: New to Microneedling? What Serums to Buy. This covers your foundational PDRN, peptides, exosome, and growth factors for regeneration, glow, brightening, and texture.
  • Advanced Skin Boosters (The Premium Tier): For those following the full SK Way protocol who want to introduce high-concentration, cellular-level signaling molecules, we step into premium territory. Note: These are advanced, professional-grade formulas and are not typically found on standard retail sites like Meamo.
    • For Exosome Weeks: I use Dermagen+ EXOSIA to deliver pure, high-potency signal molecules to the cells.
    • For PDRN/PN Weeks: I use GTM Goldcell+ PDRN to optimize tissue regeneration and rapidly calm inflammation.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (For Hydration & Glide): I personally do not use HA for “slip” because it can compete with expensive skin boosters for open microchannels. However, if you choose to use it, ensure the formula matches your depth:
    • For Cosmetic Depth (<0.5mm): A widely available option like Cos De Baha HA Serum works beautifully.
    • For Medical Depth (>0.5mm): You must use a completely sterile, injectable-grade option like Hyaron to eliminate the risk of introducing contaminants into the dermis.

Aftercare Products

  • Calecim Pro Serum (optional) increases wound healing speed and efficacy
  • Peptide serums, pigment inhibitors, growth factors 
  • Gentle, non-occlusive, water-based moisturizer 
  • Broad-spectrum sunscreen (essential!)

Cosmetic versus Medical Depth MNing

You want to do cosmetic depth unless there is a need for going deeper. 

Quick level set: 

  • Cosmetic depth is <=0.5mm
  • Medical depth is >0.5mm

There are some small exceptions for what is considered cosmetic depth. If you have genetically thicker skin, 0.75mm on the cheeks may still be within cosmetic depth. Skin also varies in thickness depending on location (cheek vs forehead). The key is to stay in the epidermis and not not pierce through the basal layer into the dermis. In a proper cosmetic treatment, you should never have bleeding.    

Medical depth requires considerably more care in the process.  Everything must be sterile, tools must be wiped with alcohol, and gloves worn. The products you can use are narrowed to only specific sterile types to avoid granulomas or infections. Recovery is much longer, and the frequency of treatments is strictly limited to a minimum of 4-6 weeks to allow the skin to complete its remodeling phase.   

A Little History and Perspective on MNing Depth 

MNing started out as a treatment that was traditionally done deeply. Modern microneedling was popularized by Dr. Desmond Fernandes in the late 90s. At the time, the theory was that you needed to create significant “micro-bruising” and reach the papillary dermis to trigger a healing response. Practitioners believed that deeper injury meant more repair, leading to the use of needles as long as 2.0mm to 3.0mm, which required topical anesthesia and resulted in significant bleeding and downtime.

Even now, med clinics that perform microneedling typically perform deep MNing. But, they are usually scheduling these appts respecting minimum wait times and are experts at this sterile procedure using professional equipment.
Side note: Don’t confuse RF MNing with Medical MNing, they are different procedures. 

But the latest science shows that there is no need to go that deep, and certainly not often. Research (notably by Dr. Lance Setterfield) suggests that because the epidermis is generally only 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick on the face, a 0.5mm needle is sufficient to reach the junction where the most productive signaling happens. Recent studies proved that the same amount of collagen is produced at 0.5mm as at 1.5mm depth. We now know that collagen production isn’t just about physical trauma; it’s about cell-to-cell signaling. Piercing the epidermis sends a chemical signal (growth factors and cytokines) down to the fibroblasts in the dermis without needing to actually stab them.  

Deep, frequent needling can actually lead to micro-scarring (fibrosis) rather than healthy, bouncy collagen. This is also known as “disorganized collagen” – instead of the body calmly weaving new Type I collagen, it goes into emergency repair mode. It quickly lays down Type III collagen in thick, parallel bundles. Initially, the skin might look plump or tight, but over time, this disorganized collagen makes the skin lose its natural give. Repeated trauma can lead to a “waxy” or hard texture because the skin is becoming internally scarred rather than truly rejuvenated.  By staying shallow, you preserve the skin’s structural integrity while still getting the glow and thickening effects.

MN Pens: Circles versus Stamps

The physical technique you use to microneedle is a hot topic because not all movements are created equal. Regardless of the method, you will typically work in small sections, following a grid pattern – horizontal, vertical, and diagonal passes – to ensure uniform coverage.

The Circle Method (The Traditional Approach)

Until recently, the “Circle Method” was the gold standard. This involves making small, continuous loops while gliding the pen across the skin without lifting it. Most estheticians were trained this way and still use it in clinical settings with professional-grade equipment. There is an argument that these high-torque medical devices cycle the needles fast enough to minimize drag. However, professional treatments are also typically spaced much further apart (months or even years) giving the skin ample time to recover from the inherent friction. This is why you still see many veteran estheticians demonstrating circles in their tutorials.

The Stamp Method (The SK Preferred Approach)

The “Stamp Method” involves a “lift and place” motion. You are vertically placing the pen, lifting it entirely, and moving to the next spot—never dragging or gliding it across the surface.

Why Technique Matters: The “Banana Peel” Lesson

If you’ve seen the famous demonstration videos comparing microneedling methods on a banana peel, the results are eye-opening:

  • Dermarollers: These are often the most damaging. Because the needles enter and exit at an angle, they “gouge” the skin, creating wide, V-shaped holes rather than clean channels.
  • Circling/Gliding: While better than a roller, gliding a pen sideways while the needles are rapidly moving up and down can cause micro-tears. You are essentially “slicing” the skin horizontally while trying to pierce it vertically.
  • Stamping: This is the only method that guarantees pure, vertical channels. By lifting the pen, you ensure the needles enter and exit at a 90-degree angle with no dragging.

The Long-Term Consequence: “The Pile-Up”

Every time you create an angled or stretched channel, your body has to work harder to repair that larger “wound.” Over time, these micro-tears can lead to micro-scarring (disorganized collagen). Instead of the bouncy, refined skin we’re after, you can end up with a tougher, rougher texture as that internal scarring “piles up.” By adopting the Stamp Method, you preserve your skin’s structural integrity and ensure that every channel you create is a clean path for your boosters – not a new scar.

How Many Pins? 

If you are using the recommended Dr. Pen, you have some choices on which needle cartridges to attach.  

General rule: Fewer pins will penetrate more deeply.   

  • 36 pin is ideal for cosmetic (shallow) depth MN. It provides many channels while not going in too deep. You want a stash of mostly 36-pin carts since that will be what you use the most. 
  • 12-18 pin will work well if you decide to do medical (deep) depth MN. They can also work well if you want to MN on your body, like to break up scars, stretch marks, or tighten up loose skin. 
  • Nano is ideal for daily product penetration as it does not have any pins.
    Dr. Lance Setterfield advocates for daily MN “maintenance” at a very shallow depth, less than 0.3mm.  A nano cartridge uses microscopic silicon or stainless steel pyramids (often only 0.15mm height) to temporarily “disrupt” the corneum (the very top layer of dead skin). This creates thousands of microscopic pathways for your serums to bypass the skin’s barrier. They provide the “upregulation” and absorption Dr. Setterfield talks about without triggering a wound-healing response that would require downtime. 

Pin count also affects the number of open channels you are creating each time the pins penetrate the skin.  Obviously, a 36-pin makes more holes than a 12-pin. 

Pen Speed 

The speed setting dictates how many “stamps” the device performs per second.

For the Stamp Method, you generally want to stick to a Medium-to-High speed (Level 4 or 5 on most Dr. Pen models).

  • Vertical Accuracy: Higher speeds ensure the needles cycle in and out of the skin very rapidly. This reduces the chance of the needle “snagging” or “tugging” as you move the pen to the next stamping position.
  • The “Mat” Effect: When using a high-pin cartridge (like a 36-pin), there is more resistance from the skin. A higher speed helps the needles overcome this resistance to reach your set depth (0.5mm) efficiently.
  • Safety Over Speed: While the motor should be fast, your hand should be slow. Never rush the stamping motion. A higher device speed allows you to be more deliberate and slow with your hand, ensuring every stamp is clean and vertical.
GoalSuggested SpeedWhy?
Cosmetic Depth (0.25mm–0.5mm)Medium-High (4–5)High speed creates thousands of channels quickly for the skin boosters to enter without drag.
Bony Areas (Forehead/Bridge of Nose)Medium (3)Lowering the speed slightly here can be more comfortable and gives you more control on areas with very little cushion.
Thick Skin (Cheeks/Jawline)High (5–6)Higher torque helps the needles penetrate the denser tissue of the cheeks more effectively.

Do not feel the need to use the highest speed setting just because it’s there. On some pens, the highest speed (Level 6) can cause the device to vibrate excessively, which might lead to hand fatigue or less precision. Find the sweet spot, usually Level 4 or 5, where the motor sounds steady and the penetration feels smooth and effortless.

Treatment Plan

Don’t forget to track results with photos and notes. 

General Process

1) Divide your face into sections. Not literally, just think about it this way. I typically section by half forehead, other half forehead, first eye, second eye, nose, upper lip, (change depth), first temple and upper cheek, second temple and upper cheek, lower cheeks and chin, jowls and under chin, neck, then chest.  I usually start at the top with the forehead and eyes since I want the needles at their sharpest for those delicate areas, and for convenience I do all of the sections that need to be done more shallow before changing the pen depth setting to continue. 

2) Apply a small amount of skin booster to the area you’re about to treat.

  • Don’t overdo it – just enough to keep it slick without drying out before you needle.
  • Work one quadrant at a time.

3) Microneedle that section, then immediately re-apply a small amount of booster and pat it in while the microchannels are at their peak openness.

4) As you move through each section, you can go back and reapply lightly to areas already treated.

  • Keep an eye on how much product you’re using – pace yourself to make sure you have enough to cover all zones.

5) When you’re done needling, use whatever is left in the vial and apply liberally across your whole treatment area.

  • Microchannels remain open for about 15 minutes, so this is your absorption window.

6) Finish with Calecim Professional Serum (optional)

  • This is an outstanding growth factor and recovery serum.
  • It enhances everything you just did, promoting faster healing, reducing post-procedure redness, and amplifying the regenerative effects of your treatment.
  • Apply a thin layer over your entire treated area and let it absorb fully.

What I Don’t Do

This is a KEY part of the “SK Way”

I do not use Hyaron or HA “for slip.” The pen moves over my face just fine without making it a slippery mess. But the real reason is that I do not want low-efficacy HA filling up the channels I create and competing with the expensive skin booster I am applying. Many Korean skin boosters already contain HA anyway. You only have about 15 mins to apply your nice Korean skin booster, you want it to get in as soon as possible in the process while the channels are “peak open” and not competing to get past the HA clogging up the holes.

How To Actually Apply the Skin Booster

Before choosing a method below, let’s be clear: all of these application methods are designed for Cosmetic Depth MNing. None of these tools are completely sterile, although you can use your hypochlorous acid spray to disinfect everything before use. At a shallow cosmetic depth, that is perfectly okay because you aren’t piercing through the basal layer into the blood supply. However, if you are doing a Medical Depth MNing session, you must use medical-grade sterility: sterile gloves, a brand-new syringe/needle to draw up the booster, or a truly sterile vial topper. Do not use open-air “hacks” when there is pinpoint bleeding.

The Ghetto Way

  • Pour a little from the vial into the palm of your clean hand
  • Use your fingers to pat it on like toner – fast, easy, low-tech
  • Not sterile, but works just fine if you’re being clean about it
  • Works in a pinch when you didn’t prepare any other method

Using a Vial Topper

  • Pop a plastic vial topper onto your booster vial — they’re cone-shaped with a screw-cap tip.  Some skin boosters include one of these in the box. 
  • Remove the cap, turn the vial upside down, and squeeze directly onto your skin as you go. The silicone does great at not dripping and only releasing when you squeeze. 
  • Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K7MYZ2F
  • Tip: These can go in the dishwasher and be reused

Using a Pipette

  • These 3 ml plastic pipettes are my favorite – cheap and effective
  • Dip the pipette into the vial to draw it up
  • Feels like basting a turkey, but it’s your face
  • Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D127WV43

Using a Fan Brush and Bowl

  • Pair a disposable fan brush with a little bowl 
  • Don’t get the silicone brushes, the skin booster is too watery and it won’t adhere
  • My least favorite method, but others prefer it! 
  • Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2KW97K

Treatment Schedule

The philosophy: “little and often” rather than “big and traumatic.”  

By staying consistent with cosmetic depths, we keep the skin’s rejuvenation signals “on” without the inflammation and downtime of a major medical procedure.

Daily & Weekly Modes

Choose one mode per day based on your goals:

  • Cosmetic Depth (< 0.5mm): Performed once per week. Yes, every week! At this depth, we are reaching the basal layer to upregulate genes and trigger the release of growth factors without causing a true “wound.”
  • Nano-Depth < 0.2mm): Performed daily for product absorption. By creating microscopic pathways daily, you ensure your expensive boosters are actually reaching the living layers of the skin. You can achieve this in several ways:
    • Use a Nano cartridge on your Dr Pen.
    • Use electroporation (like a Medicube Booster or Leaf device).
    • Use spicules:  Using VT Reedle Shot 100, where natural bio-silica spicules create channels for absorption.
  • Medical Depth (< 1.5mm): The heavy lifter, performed every 4–6 weeks at most. If you are over 50, stick to the 5–6 wk end of that range; collagen cycling slows down post-menopause.

    After a medical session, I take two weeks off from all needling and most other treatments to let the skin fully synthesize collagen without interruption.

SK’s Schedule

This is my personal schedule for the type, frequency, and boosters used.  I cycle between exosomes (Dermagen EXOSIA) and PDRN (Goldcell+) to keep the skin guessing and regenerating.

I do sometimes switch out the Goldcell PDRN for another booster, but I keep to my exosome schedule.

WeekTypeDepthCartridgeBoosterAftercare
Week 1Cosmetic< 0.5mm36 pinGTM Goldcell+ PDRN Calecim Pro Serum, Vampire Exosomes
Week 2Cosmetic< 0.5mm36 pinDermagen EXOSIA Calecim Pro Serum
Week 3Cosmetic< 0.5mm36 pinGTM Goldcell+ PDRNCalecim Pro Serum, Vampire Exosomes
Week 4Cosmetic< 0.5mm36 pinDermagen EXOSIA Calecim Pro Serum
Week 5Cosmetic< 0.5mm36 pinGTM Goldcell+ PDRNCalecim Pro Serum, Vampire Exosomes
Week 6Medical<1.5mm12 pinDermagen EXOSIACalecim Pro Serum
Week 7Nothing– Vampire Exosomes

In Week 8 – start the cycle over. 

The Exosome Strategy:

  • If it’s a PDRN week, I top it off with Young Goose Vampire Exosomes.
  • If I am already using Dermagen EXOSIA, I skip the additional Vampire Exosomes to avoid oversaturating the skin receptors.
  • The BAP Twist: In week 4, I often split my Dermagen EXOSIA. I add the exosome vial to my PN booster for my BAP protocol, then use the activating solution alone for the MNing portion over the top. See my step-by-step RegenaGlow Exo BAP Recipe for the exact mixing ratios.
  • The Post-Medical Exception: Some people advocate for not using any products after medical MNing. However, because professional-grade exosomes are engineered for deep-tissue cellular communication, I want them reaching that deeper layer. My skin tolerates it beautifully, but always listen to your own skin barrier.  

Medical MNing: Preservative Ingredients to Avoid

When you transition from cosmetic depth to a medical depth session (>0.5mm), the product selection rules change completely. Because you are passing the basal layer and entering the dermis, your skin’s natural filtration system is bypassed.

Many popular skincare serums and boosters contain common cosmetic preservatives to extend shelf life. While these are perfectly safe for daily surface application, introducing them into the deep, living layers of the skin can trigger a severe foreign-body inflammatory response.

If you are performing medical depth microneedling or shallow mesotherapy, check your ingredient labels meticulously. The presence of any of the following ingredients should immediately disqualify a product from being used during or immediately after your session:

  • Phenoxyethanol & Benzyl Alcohol: Highly common aromatic alcohols that can cause severe localized cytotoxicity and tissue irritation when trapped beneath the stratum corneum.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol & Caprylyl Glycol: Common glycol humectants/preservatives. In deep tissue, they can disrupt cell-to-cell signaling and stall the natural wound-healing cascade.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, & Phenethyl Alcohol: Synthetic conditioning agents and stabilizers that can trigger delayed-type hypersensitivity reactions or foreign-body granulomas (hard nodules under the skin) if introduced into the blood supply.

As DIY researchers, the burden is entirely on us to verify ingredients. While advanced, professional Korean skin boosters are explicitly formulated to be safe for deep tissue delivery, always cross-reference the ingredient deck. If a formula contains any of these stabilizing glycols or aromatic preservatives, save it strictly for your shallow cosmetic weeks.

Check the “Further Reading” section below for an interesting article on this topic. 

When to Skip MNing

Consistency is key, but forcing a treatment on compromised skin can set you back months. Skip your session if:

  • Recent Neuromodulators (Tox):
    • Before Tox: You can MN right up until your tox appointment, provided any redness or swelling has subsided.
    • After Tox: You should wait at least 2 weeks after injections before MNing that same area. The physical manipulation and increased blood flow from MNing can potentially cause the toxin to migrate to unintended muscles, leading to issues like a heavy brow or “droopy” eyelid.
  • Active Breakouts: Never needle over active acne or pustules; you risk spreading bacteria across the face.
  • Sunburn or Windburn: If your skin is already inflamed or the barrier is “angry,” wait another week.
  • Illness: If you are fighting a cold or flu then your immune system is busy. Let it focus on getting you well before asking it to build new collagen.
  • Unusual Sensitivity: If your skin still feels “active” or tender from the previous week, listen to it and give it an extra 48–72 hours of rest.
  • Travel Plans: Needling creates a “raw” state. If you have upcoming travel with high sun exposure, such as on a beach or hiking in high UV the next day, wait until you are back. 

Aftercare

The first 24 hours after microneedling are a “golden window” for absorption, but they are also when your skin is most vulnerable. Your aftercare strategy depends entirely on the depth of the treatment you performed.

As a reminder, Calecim Pro Serum is always in my routine for every type of MN treatment. I put it on shortly after my skin booster has fully absorbed and my skin is dry. The channels are starting to close by then, but it still penetrates well and with no irritation.  

The following is what else you can/cannot apply:

After Cosmetic MN (< 0.5mm)

Because cosmetic depth stays within the epidermis and does not reach the blood supply, you have wide latitude with your products. You can safely introduce targeted treatments once your “liquid gold” boosters have been applied:

  • Peptide Serums: These are excellent for following up a session. Peptides like Copper Peptides (for healing) or Argireline (the “botox-in-a-bottle” peptide) can signal the skin to repair and firm while the channels are still open.
  • Pigmentation Products: If you are battling melasma or sun spots, applying “brighteners” like Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, or Kojic Acid post-needling is highly effective. These ingredients can reach the melanocytes more directly to “shush” pigment production.
  • Growth Factors: Specialized growth factor serums (even plant-based ones) are very popular in post-cosmetic care to speed up the “glow” factor and reduce inflammation.
  • The 1-Hour Wait: For best results, wait one hour before applying your moisturizer. This allows your high-potency boosters to fully penetrate and the skin to complete its initial clotting phase without interference.
  • The “No Actives” Rule: Even at shallow depths, your skin is open. Experts say do not use any acids or Vitamin C for at least 24 hours. Some also say no tret/retinols, but that really depends on your level of experience and tolerance (see below for more info).   

After Medical MN (> 0.5mm)

Medical depth is a different playing field. Because you have entered the dermis, the risk of infection or granulomas is much higher. You must be extremely restrictive with what you apply.

  • Specialty Recovery Products: Only use products specifically formulated for “post-procedure” use, which are designed to be biocompatible with open skin.
  • Water-Based Only: Stick to water-based, non-occlusive moisturizers with very few preservatives. These allow the skin to “breathe” and prevent trapping heat or bacteria during the initial healing cascade. I use Dermagen Bio Activing PDRN Cream, and only after a few hours when I am sure the channels have closed. 
  • Sterile Hydration: If you need extra hydration immediately, use a sterile, injectable-grade Hyaluronic Acid to ensure no contaminants enter the dermis.

What to ALWAYS Avoid (The “Never” List)

Regardless of depth, these should be avoided for the first 48–72 hours:

  • Heavy Occlusives: Avoid petroleum-based products like Vaseline or Aquaphor, or oil-based products like Emu Oil, Bio Oil or similar. These can trap heat, sweat, and bacteria in the channels, leading to breakouts or folliculitis.
  • Exfoliating Acids: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs will cause severe stinging and potential chemical burns on open skin.
  • Fragrance & Essential Oils: These are the leading cause of post-procedure contact dermatitis.
  • Sweat & Sun: Avoid the gym, saunas, and direct sunlight for at least 48 hours. Your skin’s natural “umbrella” is down, and UV damage can be significant during this phase.  I will note, many people break this rule with little issue, so make your own judgement on what works for you.

The “Adapted” Tretinoin Exception

While beginners should stop Tretinoin for 3–7 days, “highly adapted” users with a resilient barrier may not need to stop before a cosmetic session.

  • Pre-Conditioning: Maintaining your routine if you are already “retinized” can keep cellular turnover optimized and construction workers (fibroblasts) in an active state.
  • Resuming: Even if you don’t stop before the treatment, highly adapted users should wait at least a few hours post-needling before resuming Tretinoin to avoid “retinoid dermatitis”. 

Microneedling Playlist

These are my favorite MNing videos on YouTube.  I put them into a playlist to make it easier.   

As you watch, keep this in mind: US licensed aestheticians and dermatologists cannot legally recommend any products or treatments that are not FDA approved. Some reputable influencers follow the same practice to limit their liability. So you will never see Penn Smith, a master aesthetician, recommend Korean skin boosters, even though she has excellent scientific practice. Watch her for the methods, but where she promotes using plain HA, you can substitute with your sterile skin boosters instead.    

Further Reading

Dr. Lance Setterfield’s study “Upregulation of Genes at the Dermal Epidermal Junction” is the standard for what defines cosmetic microneedling.

Dr. Lance Setterfield’s website: https://needlingguide.com/

  • When and What to Use After Medical Microneedling – I love the explanation here.  Do keep in mind that in the 10+ yrs after this was published, we now have many proven Korean skin boosters that are considered safe for use even with Medical MNing. Today, we have access to incredible regenerative ingredients like PDRN and Exosomes that are designed for this purpose, but the burden remains on us to verify that the formulations are free of the harmful preservatives or allergenic ingredients.